La Linea d’Ombra:  In Venice for a romantic week end? This is the place where you want to go and have dinner. Situated at the end of the Zattere, the terrace of this restaurant has a breathtaking view over the Canale della Giudecca and the food is great. I have a kind of set menu here as I always seem to eat the same. The choice of raw fish and seafood is simple but freshly delicious (tuna, sea bass, scallops, scampi and more). Their pastas are all good and they change often and the best sea bass baked in salt is produced here. The sommelier, Alberto, is wonderful in suggesting the right wines to match your food. You will not be disappointed by the experience. (price around €90 pp) Tel +39 041 2411881 Booking essential

Alle Testiere: This very small Trattoria (only 8 tables) offers a very nice menu in which the chef has very cleverly fused Venetian cuisine with some of the spices that used to be so popular in Venice at the times of the Republic. Very nice is also the wine list and the staff very helpful. (price around €40 pp) San Lio   Tel. +39 041 522 7220 Booking essential

La Cantina:
For a long time food lovers have been talking to me about this small restaurant and finally I went to try it and it was an amazing discovery. Francesco, the chef, does an incredible research for the best possible ingredients and cooks them simply but with a touch of originality, adding spices, flavours from the old times and presents his food beautifully. I didn't order anything and let him choose for me (often this is the best way to eat in restaurants of a certain level) and he delighted me with a choice of the days best. Loved the combination of "Riso di Venere" (a small red rice with a very nutty flavour) Venetian fresh Borlotti beans, row Sicilian prawns with a touch of curry powder. His tartar of smoked salmon on a slice of green apple and topped with a fried quail egg was a sinphony of flavours and textures. Wonderful also his seared fresh salmon bits with fresh grated horseradish and to fisnish the meal a seared slice of fois Gras of the best quality accompanied by home made Orange mostarda. Francesco will certainly see me over and over... Strada Nuova 3689, Tel. 041 5228258

Osteria Enoteca Ai Artisti: I have only just discovered this small trattoria that from the outside looks as a bar. The menu is small, simple but nicely prepared and tasty: an ideal place where to go and have a light lunch and a glass of wine or Prosecco while touring the city. I had the best cannelloni I have eaten in a while. (price around €20pp) Fondamenta della Toletta, Dorsoduro 1169/A   Tel. 041 5238944 Booking essential

Pane Vino e San Daniele: In the middle of the quiet Campo dell’Angelo Raffaele, this restaurant offers some specialities from Sardinia. If there are at least 10 of you call in advance (3 days) and order the suckling pig: cooked to perfection and delicious. Othrwise they serve the best Prosciutto San Daniele in town. Order just that with Pane Carasau and wine and have a happy light lunch. (price around €30pp) Campo dell’Angelo Raffaele Tel. +39 041 5237456

 
La fondamenta: This lovely, new and modern restaurant is located near the Ghetto, in Canareggio along a lovely and quiet canal. The menu is small and food is lovely and beautifully presented on modern design crockery. Fondamenta della Misericordia 2578. Tel 041 717315

Trattoria Marco Polo: for the meat lovers this is the place where to go. Situated in San Lio, call upfront and ask to reserve your own T bone steak, about 1.1kg of tender and succulent meat cooked to perfection and kept warm on your table on a hot slate stone. Accompany with one of the many wonderful wines offered by the restaurant and have a good evening (try a bottle of Don Tommaso ’94 from the Corsini family) (price around €40 pp) Castello 5548  +39 041 5235018

Taverna San Lio: This very modern restaurant, just next door from the Trattoria Marco Polo, offers some simple but nicely prepared dishes. Their fresh pasta preparations are well balanced and the fillings home made with an original touch. Menu changes often but if it is on it, try the octopus salad accompanied with baby potatoes cooked in saffron.  Very good wine list. (price around €40pp) Castello 5547/4  Tel. +39 041 2770669 

Best Bellini in town:

The bar of the Londra Palace Hotel: The barman of this well reputed hotel makes the best and the only real Bellini still surviving in Venice. This is a seasonal drink as it is made with fresh white peaches so they will only serve it in summer like in the old times. Most other Bellini’s in Venice are made with frozen peaches and does not taste the same. The bonus is one of the best views over the Bacino Orseolo Riva degli Schiavoni, 4171 (041 2700600) 

My favourite tramezzini:

Bar Toletta: this small cafe, with only a few tables, and mainly frequented by students from the many schools and university in the area, offers by far the best Tramezzini in town. Tramezzini are typical Venetian sandwiches, made of soft bread and stuffed with a huge array of different fillings. Try a few but avoid the crab ones as they only use surimi (imitation Japanese crab) A couple of tramezzini with a glass of prosecco make for a lovely lunch. Dorsoduro 1191 Tel. 041 5200196

Caffe Rosso: Situated in the middle of campo Santa Margherita, this cafe is mainly frequented by students. In a summer evening many of them gather there for a drink but inside they serve delicious tramezzini and sandwiches that can make a nice lunch on a very picturesque and animated square. Campo Santa Margherita

My favourite  Cicchetti:

Agli Schiavi: The lady of the house keeps under the counter a small book written by her with the recipes of her now famous cicchetti (Venetian version of Spanish Tapas). Between 6.30 and 8pm most young Venetian society meets here to decide the evening program or to have a social drink. Go early as the cicchetti disappear fast. Very nice choice of wines by the glass to enjoy with your cicchetti. My favourite cicchetto is the tuna and leak “sandwich” (just a small slice of bread topped with a delicious cream of tuna and leaks) Fondamenta Nani 992.  Tel : 041 5230034
 

Ai Do Mori: Although it has become an expensive place for a drink, Ai Do Mori is still the most beautiful and typical of Baccaro’s . Hidden behind the Rialto market, there are no tables but an incredible choice of both “cicchetti” and wines by the glass. Pop in and check it out after your visit of the market. San Polo 429, Tel 041 5225401

Al Marca’: Situated just at the entrance of the Rialto market this is not a cafe as you can only stand outside, but it offers some nice cicchetti (mainly baby sandwiches with local cold meats) and good open wines. On a sunny day it is wonderful to have a drink and observe the people passing by.

Bancogiro Rialto: This lovely Bacaro is situated at the bottom of the Rialto Bridge, very close to the market. With a spectacular view over the Grand canal, the tables outside are a wonderful place where to take a break from touring the city and enjoy some nice cicchetti and try a few of their very well selected wines. Campo San Giacometto, 122,                         Tel 041-5232061, fax 041-5232061

Al Prosecco: Situated in San Giacomo dell’Orio Square (Campo), an area mainly frequented by locals, this Osteria offers  an unusual array of snacks: cheeses, both local and international, cold meats, sandwiches and fish preparations, as the best of Lampedusa Tuna, sword fish and trout marinated with herbs and generous salads, all created to be enjoyed  with wine. As the wine selection is quite big, ask the staff to help you select what best matches your choice of menu. On Saturdays Oysters and raw fish and in the summer evenings you might be lucky enough to enjoy a concert on the square. Campo San Giacomo dall'Orio,1503

Al Paradiso Perduto: This is an ideal place where to go and have a taste of cicchetti while visiting this less touristy and quiter part of Venice. You can sit outside by the canal and try a selection of delicious  typically  Venetian dishes and wines in a real Venetian atmosphere. Evenings are busier then lunches. Fondamenta della Misericordia 2540 Tel. 041 720581

(This is useful for those of you who chose to rent a flat in Venice)

The Rialto Market: This is not a shop, but by far the best food shopping experience you can have in Venice. It is not only a lively and colourful market but it also offers the best selection of vegetables, fish and seafood in northern Italy. The variety of the vegetables depends on the season but admire the freshness of all the ingredients and the huge variety. In season you will find the real local specialities like vegetables grown in the nearby islands (Sant’Erasmo being the most well known one), like the famous “castraure” (the first artichoke the plant produces).

It would be impossible to give a list of all the fish and seafood which is offered at the market but look at the freshness... and if you rent a flat (suggested accommodation solution) buy some and cook it at home. Market closes at 12.30

Mercato di Santa Margherita: On this large square in the mornings till 12.30 there are 3 fish mongers with a good selection of fish and seafood although not as big as in Rialto and slightly more expensive. Campo Santa margherita

La Barca della verdure: In campo Santa Barbara, only few steps away from Campo Santa Margherita, there is the most photographed vegetables “store” in the world. Vegetables are served from a colourful boat moored in the canal and in summer you will often see many artists sitting and painting this unusual shop. Campo San Barnaba

Da Mascari: Hidden behind the Rialto Market, this store offers an incredible choice of spices and different Asian ingredients (the only one in Venice). There is also a good choice of local and national delicacies. Calle degli Spezieri, S. Polo 381  Tel. 0415229762

Siciliando: This store is run by a Sicilan man who is proud to sell specialities from both Sicily and Puglia. There are no fresh ingredients but he offers very good quality pasta, Pistachio pesto (lovely with pasta), olive oils, Balsamic vinegars and plenty more.  Calle dell’Aseo. (Off the Strada Nuova)

Millevini: Lorenzo is the co owner of this fabulous wine shop. With an amazing choice of Italian wines, it also offers some top French wines and champagnes and recently some new world wines. He speaks amazing English, is incredibly well prepared on his subject and will gladly spend the time it takes to guide you through the fascinating world of wines. Ask him also to talk to you about balsamic vinegars and discover with him this amazing Italian product. The shop is at the bottom of the Rialto Bridge on San Bartolomeo side: ideal to visit after your tour of the Market. Enoteca  Millevin S. Marco, 5362  Tel: 041.5206090